Celso is one of the original fish restaurants in La Caleta, established long before the new boys arrived in town with their fancy menus and quirky twists. It served simple fish dishes with little pomp and circumstance and even less imagination. Nowadays things have changed. Dragged into maturity by the high number of competitors in the village, it now delivers seafood with a smile (so sadly lacking before), and also with an efficiency that years ago it couldn’t be arsed to muster.
The setting is just about as near to nirvana as you could wish for a fish restaurant. Perched mere inches from the briny, you can almost stick your hand out the window and catch the little buggers yourself. To get even closer to the elements, bag an outside table. However, be on guard for when the wind picks up, which it often does on this headland. When the parasols are in full sail, we’ve seen tables tossed, fish flipped into laps and red wine making pretty patterns on the smartest white cotton frocks. At the merest breeze, grab the table and hang on for dear life. Hopefully a waiter will scurry out to rescue you and your haddock before you’ve time to say “there’s no place like home” and are whisked off to Oz like Judy Garland.
When it comes to what to choose, it depends on what you like. Obviously. There’s a pick and point system for tapas and for shellfish. Otherwise you can’t go wrong with the Canarian favourites of Vieja (parrotfish) or Dorada (sea bass). Failing that, order the fish backed in a salt casing. Very delicious and sure to draw gasps of wonder as the salt is chipped off at your table. Kids are welcome and can wander amongst the nearby rock pools, though watch them on those volcanic rocks – they’re might sharp if they stumble. There’s also a handy ladder for an easy descent into La Caleta bay if you fancy working up your appetite beforehand.
All in all Celso provides a very pleasant venue at which to spend a lazy afternoon lunching on the ocean front.